Parks and Wildlife

Africa south of the equator is rightly famous for its diversity of wildlife parks, and apart from the signature wilderness preserves of the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania, each of the dozen or so countries that make up the region have their own particular character of national parks, wildlife and nature preserves. It is an unfortunate fact that outside of these, due in large measure to overpopulation, habitat destruction and from time to time war, very little significant wildlife manages to survive. Even within these preserves, and with the help of many international organizations, the preservation of the continent’s natural heritage against the predations of a burgeoning human population is a constant battle.

The Great Lakes region, comprising western Uganda, eastern Congo, Rwanda and Burundi are famed for mountain and rainforest ecologies, with the main emphasis being on a handful of parks that protect a dwindling population of wild chimpanzees and mountain gorillas. The future of these areas are by no means guaranteed, and certainly the future of the vulnerable species they host even less so. The various plains species that are defined mainly by the ‘big five’ - or lion, leopard, buffalo, rhino and elephant - are more widespread, somewhat hardier, and although still under pressure from human encroachment, less immediately threatened. Kenya is probably the signature wildlife safari destination in the region, with a highly regulated industry involving a vast area of national parks, that are both well managed and accessible. Tanzania, likewise, is known for huge parks of which the Serengeti is just one. Selous National Park is no less spectacular, as is the Eden like conservation area of the Ngorongoro Crater. Further south Zimbabwe and Zambia have among the best managed parks systems in the region, with the Luangwa and Barotse wilderness areas in Zambia and the Hwange, Matusadona and Mana Pools preserves in Zimbabwe. In all of these excellent National Parks official facilities combine with many private reserves, including various levels of luxury wilderness lodge and Boma accommodation, most particularly in the south. Botswana is arguably the jewel in the crown in this regard with a finely tuned industry revolving around three principal areas. These are the Okavango Delta, and the Chobe and Moremi National Parks. The Delta is a curious phenomenon that occurs as a consequence of the Chobe River simply disappearing into the Kalahari Desert. As a consequence it has created a vast area of swamps and river lakes that provide refuge for a staggering diversity of African wildlife, flora and bird life. I have heard it said, and have seen for myself, that what species of birds one can spend a lifetime searching for in other areas can be observed at close range in Chobe, stealing the scrambled eggs of one’s breakfast plate. Again, excellent facilities and a large number of finely appointed and professional lodges and hotels service the area.

South Africa is the regional, if not the continental superpower. Built from a surfeit of diamonds, gold and many other natural resources the country has by far the most highly developed and modern general infrastructure in Africa. The national park system therefore can be expected to be of a first world standard, and it is. There are those who suggest that some essence of Africa is lost in this regard, but, when it is considered how heavy the weight of African authenticity can be on her natural heritage, this is not always a bad thing. Kruger National Park is the flagship of African wildlife parks, and truly excellent standards of conservation and protection are applied to all the vulnerable species. A program known as the TransFrontier Conservation Area is a revolutionary scheme funded in part by the Peace Parks Foundation to combine a series of major trans-boundary parks throughout the Southern African region. This process is underway, and as might be expected, leans very heavily on South African capital, expertise and moral leadership, and has still to prove itself in the real environment of African wildlife conservation. All in all contemporary African governments recognise the reality that the tourist dollar depends on the preservation of wildlife resources. The balance of human demand for land against wildlife needs for habitat is a delicate and difficult one, and more often than not nature is looser. Eco-tourism is a popular means by which local communities can benefit from the natural environment in ways other than direct exploitation. Since the revenues generated by national parks rarely filter down to indigenous populations it is important that travellers to the region are directed as much as possible to self help, indigenous eco-tourism projects. African wildlife heritage is to survive the material support of the outside world is also essential, so expect to pay much more to enter an African National Park than you would at home. Remember though, that in doing so, you have linked into a combined global effort that is in union with, but more often in spite of, the African people themselves.